Learn to Finish Your Knits!

Monday, April 20, 2009

Once you finish knitting your project, your project isn't really done until it's finished! Whether you know how or want to learn how, a must-have book for your knitting library is "The Knitter’s Book of Finishing Techniques" by Nancie M. Wiseman.

It starts with a wonderful selection of the basics , casting-on, decreasing, bind-offs, all with excellent illustrations. Then there is a detailed formula for all the different methods of joining the pieces of your project. Not only is each method well explained and pictured but Nancie also includes a list of advantages and drawbacks to each method. There is definite wisdom in learning all the methods as you can then select which method is best for each project you make. She also details finishing touches for picking up stitches, buttonholes and crochet edgings. All in all a great addition to your knitting library.

In the near future I will be offering a selection of patterns of my classic knitting designs. Each pattern will offer a varied selection of yarns appropriate to each design. Best of all I will be available to answer any questions or help with sizing advice etc.

Let’s keep in touch……


On Pins and Needles

Friday, April 10, 2009

Isn’t it amazing that what we are doing today with our knitting and crocheting skills is exactly the same things that have been done for hundreds of years all over the world? Of course the fibers have changed and we are using many new and beautiful yarns in addition to some of the same kind of hand-spun and -loomed yarns that many times are produced by knitters themselves.

It is the knitting implements themselves that are so different today; once being made from bone as well as wood. Today we have many kinds of needles (they used to be called “pins” in the British Isles) from which to choose. In response to the inquiries I have received regarding my preferences, I will tell you I almost always use circular needles; either both unjoined like a pair, or joined in a closed circle. My only straights are double points. As far as metal or bamboo or plastic, at times I have used all of these.

I like to use bamboo needles when knitting with very light weight or fingering yarns as the weight of the needles does not affect the quality of my knitting. I like metal with heavier fibers that require more pushing along the needle as the slick finish of the metal means I do not have to work as hard.

Beginning knitters progress faster when using plastic or bamboo or wood as they don’t have to worry about their stitches falling off the slicker metal needles. If you are relatively new to the world of knitting and have not yet invested in a large assortment of needles, which are getting quite expensive, I would recommend that you consider one of the interchangeable sets that are on the market.

In these sets, everything comes in a convenient kit. You can convert to almost any size from 2 or 3 thru 15 by simply connecting the heads to different lengths of pliable tubing. The most inexpensive one is made by Boye Needle Co, who I believe was the originator of this idea. Their needle heads are metal and screw together with the tubing.

The most popular in recent years is made by Denise needles. The heads are plastic, have the pointiest points and lock into place. They are also now making spare parts available separately and by the way will replace any defective part at their expense for $1.00.

The newest set is now being brought out by the Skacel Yarn Company. They are a German company and have had the most successful metal circulars on the market for the last 10 years (called addi Turbo Needles). They are also the most expensive set by far but are a very good product. I assume that sometime soon one of the bamboo makers will hop on the bandwagon and bring something similar out. Most of these products are available in most yarn stores.

In my next post, I'll make some suggestions for great Mother's Day gifts, since we are getting close (May 10th -- you have a month!).

By the way, if you haven’t yet figured out that taking a needle inventory and keeping it on a card in your wallet is a great thrifty idea and keeps you from buying duplicates you can’t always take back, think about it! IT WORKS! In another post, I’ll show you an example....

Subscribe by Email

Sunday, March 29, 2009

We've just added a widget so you can sign up to get my updates sent right to your email account.
Look to the right for the "Email Subscriptions by Feedblitz".
Thanks!

Sizing Matters

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

It’s very important as a first step to your successful knitting to have an accurate set of measurements for whoever you are knitting for (babies and pets excepted). If the knitting is for you it is best to have the measuring done by another person as it is difficult to measure yourself accurately.


Here is a list of the most essential areas you need:


  1. Chest or bust (widest part just below armpits).

  2. Shoulder (bone to bone, not including upper arm).

  3. Underside length (just below armpit to bottom of garment).

  4. Underarm (just below sleeve seam to wrist).

  5. Upperarm (bicep circumference).

  6. Wrist (circumference).

  7. Arms eye (circumference around entire armhole).

Please remember in taking circumference measurements to keep a finger inside the tape to avoid a too-tight result.


The second most important step is checking out the actual knitting measurements that the pattern is designed for. Some pattern makers work right to sizes (e.g. 32, 34, 36, etc.). Others take those measurements and add on an arbitrary ease. Either way works if you know how you want your clothes to fit.


If the pattern does not offer you measurements — actual and knitting — then you will have to check yourself. It’s only a matter of dividing the stitches given for the size you think is correct by the stated stitch gauge — you will then have the actual knitting result of the pattern. Which is why your gauge is so important.


Knitting is just a collection of arithmetic formulas. You have so many inches to cover and it takes so many stitches to cover those inches. If you are still unsure about fit, especially if you are a beginning knitter, a very safe way to start is by measuring a garment that fits correctly and going by those measurements. Don’t forget: there are no knitting police — you are free to change any of the measurements in the pattern to better fit you.


I know some of this sounds complicated and it’s easier just to follow a pattern. It is easier, provided the pattern suits your needs. Otherwise, you are back to the lady in my swatch post, who when asked if her knitted garments fit, replied "SOMEBODY."


Feel free to comment on this post or contact me (see below) with a specific question on your current project. The only dumb questions are the ones not asked.

PS About Swatches

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

In response to follow-up questions about remedies for swatches that do not match patterns…..

There are several solutions in addition to the obvious one of changing yarns or patterns. Depending on how great the difference is you might switch the size you have selected (see my post on Sizing Matters) or substitute the correct stitches per inch (gauge) and stitches per size given in the pattern if your arithmetic skills are up to the task. We will be talking about these formulas at a later time.

Keep the questions coming!

The Importance of Knitting Swatches

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Have you just found a gorgeous pattern with great yarn and you’re very excited to get started? Well, of course you are going to make a swatch………

Swatch making is the most valuable use of your preparatory knitting time. Swatches are the foreplay of knitting, always a worthwhile beginning to creating a satisfying experience. The most efficient swatch is made by casting on the number of sts designated in your pattern that will produce 4” in width (the "gauge"), in whatever stitch is used, on the needles the yarn calls for. After working for 2” (that is, 4" wide and 2" long), lay the swatch flat and measure the width. If the result is too narrow, jump up a needle size; conversely, drop down a size if you are too wide. The Rule Of Thumb: The gauge changes ½ stitch an inch per needle change. Do not tear out; just continue on with the adjusted needles, which gives you a good comparison of sizes.

While I was stressing the necessity of swatch making to a recent knitting class, one student proclaimed “I never make swatches, it's a waste of time.” I asked her if what she makes always fits? “SOMEBODY” was her reply. So there you have it.

Remember: "As ye knit; so shall ye rip"! Do you have a swatch story to share? A problem you need help with? Please add your comments! In future posts, I'll be discussing more of my "Knit to Fit" techniques.

Today's Book Pick

Monday, March 16, 2009

Pet Projects: The Animal Knits Bible by Sally Muir and Joanna Osbourne.

A fun book for animal lovers and friends of all critters. Adorable pictures and 33 delightful projects for all kinds of pets.

All of my book picks include a link to purchase at Amazon.com; you can also browse my book pics in my book carousel on the left side of my blog page! Clicking on the hyperlink in this post, or on the books in the carousel will take you to the Amazon page that will tell you more about the book (and recommend related ones, too...)
 
Knits by Jani. Design by Pocket